Weaving - manufacturing of woven fabric

Weaving is a term for one of the techniques that transform spun yarn into fabrics. There are many different looms and weaving techniques, but common to them is to weave threads that lie perpendicular to each other.

The art of woven is an ancient and traditionally craftsmanship that over time has been refined and automated, but it is still the same techniques that are used today. The weavers in Nepal where our scarf and shawls are created, typically come from a family of weavers where the teachings of this craft have been passed over generations.

In this article we review the process supplemented with video and images from our production in Kathmandu. In our production we use Indian weaving weave and jacquard weave. Both types are operated with hands and feet, without the need for electricity.

How is weaving done?

In weaving there are some terminology we need to put in place first. The threads that run in the longitudinal direction of the tissue are called the warp. The warp threads are measured before weaving starts. They must be equally long and have a length corresponding to the desired length of the finished textile.

The transverse threads are called the weft. The weaving is done by lifting some of the warp yarns and forming what is called the shell. The shoe thread is then moved back and forth in a transverse direction through the shell and forms the bond. Before weaving starts, the warp yarns are grouped into shanks to lift groups of warp threads. The simple fabric weave requires just two shafts where each other chain thread is grouped in each shaft, so this tissue pattern is also called twisted bonding.

To thread the thread back and forth between the warp threads, an object called the shuttle is used. The shuttle is pointed at both ends and contains a coil with the weft. The shuttle is then moved from west to right and back again.

On the video below, you can see how the shuttle is moving from side to side at high speed while the reed travels back and forth in the longitudinal direction of the loom. The reed ensures that the thread is packed together so that they are close to each other. The mechanics of the weave ensure coordination of moving parts, but it requires many years of experience to weave at that pace.

Weaving patterns

During the weaving, thread the wires together to lock each other. The way it is done determines the pattern on the finished textile and is called the binding. There are many different tissue patterns that give the finished textile its distinctive character. The tissue pattern is not only crucial to the texture, but the different bindings also reflect the light differently and will also feel different on the skin when it's on.

There are three basic patterns that all can be varied.

Plain weave

Plain weave is the most simple pattern you can imagine. The shin thread goes over the first warp thread, and below the next. Next time, move it down so you go under the thread you went over last time. It gives a smooth and consistent result.

You can vary the pattern by grouping a number of threads, both chain and shot, so the pattern becomes more pronounced and reminds a bit of the curve.

Woven with different colored shoots and warp threads, you can achieve a nice melange effect.

Twill weave

Twill vævningen, eller kipervævning, minder om basket weave, men grupperne forskydes for hver skudtråd, så der dannes et diagonalt mønster. Twill vævning kan varieres så der dannes andre mønstre som f.eks. diamantvævning og sildebensvævning hvor diagonalerne danner henholdsvis et diamantmønster og sildebensmønster.

Twill varianterne giver stoffet et synligt mønster. Selvom kæde- og skudtråd er samme farve, vil de reflektere lyset forskelligt. Man kan også anvende forskellige farver tråd, hvilket naturligvis vil gøre mønstret endnu tydeligere.

Satin weave

Ved satinvævning løber skudtråden typisk under 3-7 kædetråde, før det går over en kædetråd. Den næste skudtråd forskydes. Tekstiler vævet som satin bliver meget glat og glansfuldt i udseendet. Derfor er satin populært til sengetøj, skjorter og slips etc.

Væves satin med forskelligfarvet kæde- og skudtråd, vil man få et stykke tekstil med forskellige farver på hver side.

Yarn

I vores produktion af cashmere tørklæder og sjaler købes garnet på store kegler, og opvindes herefter på mindre spoler. Spolerne til skudtrådene er små da de skal kunne ligge i skytten. Her i Nepal sker det ved håndkraft, da man lider under hyppige og langvarige strømudfald. For at gøre sig uafhængig af det upålidelig elnet har man gjort stort set alle led i produktionen fri af elektricitet.